Today was a stand-out day on our trip. The places we got to visit were off the beaten path. Most tourists do not get to have the experiences we had today. We got to visit Lake Titicaca and some of its islands. Lake Titicaca, which means “big puma,” is the world’s highest lake at 3800 m above sea level. It creates a border between Peru and Bolivia. The lake is very large: 60 km across by 165 km long. Ancient peoples of Peru believed it was the end of the world, and it was easy to see why.
Early this morning we boarded our bus here in the port city of Puno. We drove through the city in order to reach the boat that was to take us on the tour of the lake. It is nice, though a very poor city. We made our way to the docks to board boats with other tourists to explore the lake.
First, we made our way to the Isla Uros, which are actually floating man-made islands. Attempting to escape colonialism from the Conquistadores, some native peoples took to the water and constructed platforms from reeds. Using the root system as a base, reeds are chopped and weaved across the platform on top. Homes, boats, and other structures are made entirely from reeds. The construction method is sound and very impressive. Walking around the small islands, the reeds crunch under foot. The islands serve up to six related families, each living in one house. Amazingly, each also has electricity thanks to solar panels, which provide power for lights and even small TV’s.
Dress is an important part of many Peruvian cultures. This point is demonstrated strongest by the inhabitants of these reed islands, the Aymara people. Women wear darker colors when married and bright colors when single. Well, we could call it bright, but that would not do these hues justice. They were loud. Screaming loud. Men don’t really have a color scheme, though they wear traditional Peruvian clothing. Additionally, women wear a pom-pom like decoration at the end of their braids. These follow the same color patterns as their dresses, but also denote marriage by how they are tied together. As a special treat, we were dressed up in the traditional dress of the Aymara people. We looked… great. It was truthfully an amazing experience to dance around with the locals drumming their traditional musical beats.
After a few of us took a ride in a reed boat, we then boarded our motorboat to Isla Taquile. It took about an hour boat ride to get to this small island. The local inhabitants had their own unique dress to denote marital status, though this system was exclusively for the men. Single men wore caps of white and red, while married men wore caps of red. Male leaders wore hats of a different style, like bowler hats, to indicate their leadership. The island was wonderful: we enjoyed lunch at the top of the hill. After, we were privileged to watch traditional ceremonial wedding and agricultural dances. A few of us, including Drew, got to join in on the fun.
Before leaving the island, we were faced with one challenge from our professor, Jalh: jump into the 12 degree C water. Four of us, including Kelsey and Drew, took the plunge. It gave the feeling of broken glass on our bodies. We were so cold we could not breathe. It was AWESOME. The sky was blue and the water clear, but we could only last a few minutes in the water. We did jump in a second time for a photo opp. This activity guaranteed an ‘A’ for the class. Thanks, Jalh!!
Friday, March 13, 2009
Blog 6: Fusion Culture
Obviously, the arrival of the Spanish to the Americas in the 15th and 16th had devastating consequences for the indigenous people of the region. During these times diseases wiped out whole tribes, exploitation destroyed civilizations, and overuse of resources destroyed pieces of history forever. A variety of cultures including the Aztecs in Mexico, indigenous tribes in the Dominican Republic and Haiti, and many others were either completely eradicated or irreparably altered. Upon visiting these places it is clear that the Spanish attempted to remove all remnants of historically culture by both intentionally destroying local people and culture or by simply building their convents and cathedrals over the local structures. This is in stark contrast to the way the Spanish influenced Peru. After decimating most of Central America, it seems that ruining the Inca Empire was inescapable, however this assumption is incorrect. The Spanish arrival in Peru in the 16th century produced an interesting fusion of indigenous and Spanish culture.
Firstly, although the Spanish destroyed part of the Qori Cancha and the main plaza in Cuzco in order to build a cathedral and two convents, large parts of the Inca capital were left intact. Moreover, the religious shrines and ceremonial sites surrounding Cuzco were left untouched, although it remains to be argued if these sites were left in peace because the Spanish didn’t want to bother with them, or because the Spanish didn’t know they existed. Since the Inca (and other cultures of Peru) were not immediately eradicated there was an interesting opportunity for a fusion culture to develop. There are several prime examples of this fusion.
One example is the colonial churches built by the Spanish which are located throughout the Incan region. These churches represent a fusion, because they often include local influences. For example, biblical inscriptions on the walls of the churches are in Latin, Spanish and Quechua. Next, the religious idols and pictures often contain local influences such as outfits, adorning jewelry and fabrics. Finally, the mix of cultures can be seen in the architecture of the churches. The churches are constructed in the local style of adobe and mud brick; however they are decorated with the European oil fresco techniques.
The next example of the fusion culture is the Andean cross. This cross is very unique because it combines local religious beliefs with Catholicism. The cross is worn as a necklace or ring and is displayed in houses, hotels, and a variety of other locations in a manner similar to the Western cross. This cross is unique because it maintains the cross shape, but includes three steps on each branch of the cross which represents the three levels of the world (heavens, earth, and the underworld) in local culture.
Finally, criolla food very clearly embodies this fusion culture. Criolla is a mixture of Spanish food and local cuisine, which creates a genre of food all its own. A few examples of this gastronomy include beef loin with peppers, marinated beef heart with potatoes, shredded chicken with yellow sauce, rice with ham, and dehydrated potatoes stuffed with chicken.
Clearly, the Spanish have had a massive impact on the Americas. For some nations this impact was not for the better, however in Peru this impact has created an interesting and unique situation in which Spanish and indigenous cultures have blended to create a unique fusion culture.
Firstly, although the Spanish destroyed part of the Qori Cancha and the main plaza in Cuzco in order to build a cathedral and two convents, large parts of the Inca capital were left intact. Moreover, the religious shrines and ceremonial sites surrounding Cuzco were left untouched, although it remains to be argued if these sites were left in peace because the Spanish didn’t want to bother with them, or because the Spanish didn’t know they existed. Since the Inca (and other cultures of Peru) were not immediately eradicated there was an interesting opportunity for a fusion culture to develop. There are several prime examples of this fusion.
One example is the colonial churches built by the Spanish which are located throughout the Incan region. These churches represent a fusion, because they often include local influences. For example, biblical inscriptions on the walls of the churches are in Latin, Spanish and Quechua. Next, the religious idols and pictures often contain local influences such as outfits, adorning jewelry and fabrics. Finally, the mix of cultures can be seen in the architecture of the churches. The churches are constructed in the local style of adobe and mud brick; however they are decorated with the European oil fresco techniques.
The next example of the fusion culture is the Andean cross. This cross is very unique because it combines local religious beliefs with Catholicism. The cross is worn as a necklace or ring and is displayed in houses, hotels, and a variety of other locations in a manner similar to the Western cross. This cross is unique because it maintains the cross shape, but includes three steps on each branch of the cross which represents the three levels of the world (heavens, earth, and the underworld) in local culture.
Finally, criolla food very clearly embodies this fusion culture. Criolla is a mixture of Spanish food and local cuisine, which creates a genre of food all its own. A few examples of this gastronomy include beef loin with peppers, marinated beef heart with potatoes, shredded chicken with yellow sauce, rice with ham, and dehydrated potatoes stuffed with chicken.
Clearly, the Spanish have had a massive impact on the Americas. For some nations this impact was not for the better, however in Peru this impact has created an interesting and unique situation in which Spanish and indigenous cultures have blended to create a unique fusion culture.
Day 5: Why the Inca?
We are proud to announce that after a week of traveling almost everyone has overcome whatever diseases they were fighting off. On the other hand, we are all exhausted from running from one place to the next, so we are taking every five minute break that we have to curl up in a ball and take a power nap. Today, we traveled from Cuzco to Puno which is about an 8 hours bus ride, but we stopped at several places. First, we stopped to visit two colonial churches which beautifully demonstrated the fusion of Spanish influence and native culture. Next, we visited the Temple of Viracoccha, which is a small Inca village dedicated to Viracoccha, or the mythical Inca creator. Finally, we stopped for lunch at a tiny local restraint which Jane would like to point out, had gorgeous flowers. On our epic bus journey, we passed through the land of several different groups including Quechua (Inca), Wari and Aymara. The Quechua, Huari and Aymara are culturally different from one another culturally, linguistically, and religiously.
This region of the world has experienced a hegemonic cycle in which one group dominates for about 200 years before they go into decline and another leader emerges. The Inca established a strong political and administrative capital in Cuzco and then began expanding by conquering small tribal and village groups. When the Spanish arrived in the 16th century they discovered that the Inca had been in power for about 150 years. It is safe to assume that if the Inca had continued undisturbed that they would have prospered for another 50 or so years before going into decline. The arrival of the Spanish is key in determining why the Inca remain so well known. The Spanish chronicled Inca culture and showed the Inca to the rest of the world. Even though it seems that Inca were more successful as an empire because they are so embedded in history, this is actually not true. Each one of these cultures has made important contributions to pre-Hispanic history.
First, the Inca had extensive knowledge of astronomy. This knowledge shaped their culture and is reflected in every aspect of their life. The Qori Cancha in Cuzco reflects the equinoxes, a variety of constellations, and other astronomical phenomena which mandated how the Inca planned the city, built their shrines, and celebrated their ceremonies.
Next, the Huari people constructed an administrative system which existed geographically close to the Inca. Historically, cities were constructed in a circular pattern with newer construction encircling older structures. This was revolutionized by the Wari because they constructed their cities in a grid pattern with modern city blocks. This seems like something completely insignificant, but the importance of this is understated. Basically, a grid pattern shows that the Huari cities were planned, rather than a village which grows randomly over time.
Finally, the Aymara are very different from the Inca because they speak a language which is completely unrelated to Quechua. In the pre-Hispanic times, the Aymara were regarded as very fierce people, and remained independent of Inca conquest. In modern times, the Aymara are still feared in Peru for their brutality and unforgiving nature. In recent years, upon learning their mayor was involved in corruption; the Aymara people kidnapped the mayor from his house, poured gasoline on him, and burned him alive. Very friendly people. Don’t worry moms; we will not be visiting with the Aymara.
Clearly, the Peruvian people are culturally and ancestrally diverse. The main reason why the Inca are the face of pre-Hispanic South American history is because they happened to be in power when the Spanish arrived. Having seen all that we have seen, we have come to the conclusion that the Inca were fascinating people; however their neighbors were equally fascinating and deserve equal recognition.
This region of the world has experienced a hegemonic cycle in which one group dominates for about 200 years before they go into decline and another leader emerges. The Inca established a strong political and administrative capital in Cuzco and then began expanding by conquering small tribal and village groups. When the Spanish arrived in the 16th century they discovered that the Inca had been in power for about 150 years. It is safe to assume that if the Inca had continued undisturbed that they would have prospered for another 50 or so years before going into decline. The arrival of the Spanish is key in determining why the Inca remain so well known. The Spanish chronicled Inca culture and showed the Inca to the rest of the world. Even though it seems that Inca were more successful as an empire because they are so embedded in history, this is actually not true. Each one of these cultures has made important contributions to pre-Hispanic history.
First, the Inca had extensive knowledge of astronomy. This knowledge shaped their culture and is reflected in every aspect of their life. The Qori Cancha in Cuzco reflects the equinoxes, a variety of constellations, and other astronomical phenomena which mandated how the Inca planned the city, built their shrines, and celebrated their ceremonies.
Next, the Huari people constructed an administrative system which existed geographically close to the Inca. Historically, cities were constructed in a circular pattern with newer construction encircling older structures. This was revolutionized by the Wari because they constructed their cities in a grid pattern with modern city blocks. This seems like something completely insignificant, but the importance of this is understated. Basically, a grid pattern shows that the Huari cities were planned, rather than a village which grows randomly over time.
Finally, the Aymara are very different from the Inca because they speak a language which is completely unrelated to Quechua. In the pre-Hispanic times, the Aymara were regarded as very fierce people, and remained independent of Inca conquest. In modern times, the Aymara are still feared in Peru for their brutality and unforgiving nature. In recent years, upon learning their mayor was involved in corruption; the Aymara people kidnapped the mayor from his house, poured gasoline on him, and burned him alive. Very friendly people. Don’t worry moms; we will not be visiting with the Aymara.
Clearly, the Peruvian people are culturally and ancestrally diverse. The main reason why the Inca are the face of pre-Hispanic South American history is because they happened to be in power when the Spanish arrived. Having seen all that we have seen, we have come to the conclusion that the Inca were fascinating people; however their neighbors were equally fascinating and deserve equal recognition.
Wednesday, March 11, 2009
Day 4: The Llama
Today, we visited a typical Quechua farm on our way to Ollatantambo. At this farm, they used the wool of alpacas, llamas and vicuñas to make exquisite textiles such as table runners, hats, gloves, mittens, slippers, sweaters and pashminas. They use a variety of pigments and native techniques to harvest the wool, clean it and prepare it for weaving. Our group was captivated by the intricate process of weaving and the indigenous weavers, but also by the animals. We spent more time running around petting, feeding, and being chased by the animals than we spent in the Indian market we visited a few towns later. Although playing with the animals might have been the highlight of our trip, it made us realize something very important. The llama family is immeasurably important to this part of the world.
Before coming to Peru, most of us had a very faint understanding that llamas populated this region, and roamed mildly as a curious creature of no apparent use. Upon arriving, it is clear that the llama plays a very important role in the culture here. This is apparent because llamas appear everywhere; on sweaters, on hillsides, on dinner plates, and pretty much anywhere else you can think of. To give a little background, the llama family includes several different types each of llamas, alpacas, vicuñas, camels and guanacos. These animals are all related (some more distantly than others), however alpacas and llamas are more closely related, and are more prominent in Peru. Vicuñas are fairly common but they aren’t as multipurpose as llamas and alpacas. Finally, guanacos are endangered and less than 400 exist.
Traditionally, llamas were used as beasts of burden and as a source of wool. They were almost never raised for consumption. Alpacas were used similarly to llamas but also served as a food source. It is clear that llamas were very important in Inca culture because they appear both in ceremonies and in astrology.
As we mentioned yesterday, astronomy was a huge part of Incan culture. In the Milky Way galaxy, the Incas identified a number of “dark constellations” or constellations formed from the dark spaces in between the stars. One of these constellations is a mother llama giving birth.
In many sacred sites we have visited there have been shrines where sacrifices were made. For a particularly important ceremony or as an offering to placate the gods, llamas were sacrificed. The rarity of llama sacrifice shows their importance. In particular, one temple had a stone compass which casts the shadow of a llama head on the summer equinox.
Overall, llamas and alpacas have been a key part of our journey to Peru. From making new friends, to finding a comfy sweater, and from a tasty dinner to helping us to understand Incan culture, the llama family has made our trip interesting and given us lots of interesting photo opportunities!
Before coming to Peru, most of us had a very faint understanding that llamas populated this region, and roamed mildly as a curious creature of no apparent use. Upon arriving, it is clear that the llama plays a very important role in the culture here. This is apparent because llamas appear everywhere; on sweaters, on hillsides, on dinner plates, and pretty much anywhere else you can think of. To give a little background, the llama family includes several different types each of llamas, alpacas, vicuñas, camels and guanacos. These animals are all related (some more distantly than others), however alpacas and llamas are more closely related, and are more prominent in Peru. Vicuñas are fairly common but they aren’t as multipurpose as llamas and alpacas. Finally, guanacos are endangered and less than 400 exist.
Traditionally, llamas were used as beasts of burden and as a source of wool. They were almost never raised for consumption. Alpacas were used similarly to llamas but also served as a food source. It is clear that llamas were very important in Inca culture because they appear both in ceremonies and in astrology.
As we mentioned yesterday, astronomy was a huge part of Incan culture. In the Milky Way galaxy, the Incas identified a number of “dark constellations” or constellations formed from the dark spaces in between the stars. One of these constellations is a mother llama giving birth.
In many sacred sites we have visited there have been shrines where sacrifices were made. For a particularly important ceremony or as an offering to placate the gods, llamas were sacrificed. The rarity of llama sacrifice shows their importance. In particular, one temple had a stone compass which casts the shadow of a llama head on the summer equinox.
Overall, llamas and alpacas have been a key part of our journey to Peru. From making new friends, to finding a comfy sweater, and from a tasty dinner to helping us to understand Incan culture, the llama family has made our trip interesting and given us lots of interesting photo opportunities!
Day 3: Cosmology of Peru
Our day started with a brief tour of Cuzco’s city center. We visited the Plaza de Armas where the Spanish cathedral and several convents are located. In Inca times, the center of the city was the Kori Cancha or the Temple of the Sun. The Spanish constructed a convent on top of this temple, but a large part of the temple still remains. According to Inca cosmology the Kori Cancha was the “navel of the world.” From this location there are 42 ceques or lines which radiate out from the temple like the spokes of a wheel. The Incas believe that Cuzco is divided into four sections, three of which contain 9 lines and one which contains 14. These lines have complicated astronomical calculations which correspond to various constellations and solar events. Each line includes any number of huacas or sacred sites. These sites usually have temples or ceremonial shrines. The calculations regarding these locations are infinitely complex. For example, the advanced nature of the Incan empire can be seen on the summer equinox (December 22) when the rising sun with shine through the perfectly aligned window in its temple and cast various significant shadows.
Clearly, the Incan empire was closely tied to the celestial bodies. There are numerous temples, shrines, etc. which coincide with a variety of dates in the astronomical calendar and show the Inca’s expansive knowledge of astronomy. The Inca did not separate the earth from sky, the way that we do in modern times. They saw the sky as a part of their world, and more specifically as a reflection of life on earth. For example, they saw the Milky Way galaxy as a reflection of their sacred Urubamba river. Unlike western civilization which sees constellations of stars in the night sky, the Inca saw constellations of stars and dark constellations of black space between the stars.
After leaving Cuzco center, we traveled to the outskirts of town to visit several important huacas. First, we visited Tambomachay, a huaca which served an important purpose in Inca civilization. This shrine celebrated water from a natural spring, but also served as a trading outpost, where traders coming from the other side of the mountains could stop to replenish their water sources.
Next we visited Q’engo. This huaca is an active archaeological l site. Here, the temple of the moon had two poles on opposing ends of the site which aligned with the path of the sun on the winter equinox (June 21). This site is actively being researched and excavated, and it still houses many mysteries.
Finally, we visited Saqsaywaman which was one of the largest huacas. This site served as an observatory of the sky, complete with many water mirrors for stargazing and watching the path of the sun. These water mirrors were ingenious firstly because they saved you from hurting your neck staring at the sky all night and also prevented you from going blind while watching the sun.
After nightfall we went to the Cuzco planetarium. Although it was too cloudy to actually stargaze we got to see what the sky would have looked like during Inca times and see some of their important constellations juxtaposed with our well known western constellations. Overall, many mysteries of the Inca empire still remain, however we know for sure that they were skilled astronomers who used their skills to tell time, build their city, celebrate their sacred places, and discover the wonders of the world.
Clearly, the Incan empire was closely tied to the celestial bodies. There are numerous temples, shrines, etc. which coincide with a variety of dates in the astronomical calendar and show the Inca’s expansive knowledge of astronomy. The Inca did not separate the earth from sky, the way that we do in modern times. They saw the sky as a part of their world, and more specifically as a reflection of life on earth. For example, they saw the Milky Way galaxy as a reflection of their sacred Urubamba river. Unlike western civilization which sees constellations of stars in the night sky, the Inca saw constellations of stars and dark constellations of black space between the stars.
After leaving Cuzco center, we traveled to the outskirts of town to visit several important huacas. First, we visited Tambomachay, a huaca which served an important purpose in Inca civilization. This shrine celebrated water from a natural spring, but also served as a trading outpost, where traders coming from the other side of the mountains could stop to replenish their water sources.
Next we visited Q’engo. This huaca is an active archaeological l site. Here, the temple of the moon had two poles on opposing ends of the site which aligned with the path of the sun on the winter equinox (June 21). This site is actively being researched and excavated, and it still houses many mysteries.
Finally, we visited Saqsaywaman which was one of the largest huacas. This site served as an observatory of the sky, complete with many water mirrors for stargazing and watching the path of the sun. These water mirrors were ingenious firstly because they saved you from hurting your neck staring at the sky all night and also prevented you from going blind while watching the sun.
After nightfall we went to the Cuzco planetarium. Although it was too cloudy to actually stargaze we got to see what the sky would have looked like during Inca times and see some of their important constellations juxtaposed with our well known western constellations. Overall, many mysteries of the Inca empire still remain, however we know for sure that they were skilled astronomers who used their skills to tell time, build their city, celebrate their sacred places, and discover the wonders of the world.
Monday, March 9, 2009
Day 2: Natural Remedies
After recovering from our exciting arrival in Cuzco, we set out for a full day of exploring the area surrounding the city. There are a few things to note about the state of our group before delving into any more detail about our day. Firstly, altitude sickness is a very real thing. Everyone in our group was experiencing it, with symptoms ranging from a light, dull headache or lightheadedness to vomiting. Needless to say it was not a pretty sight. In addition to altitude sickness, many of our group members were suffering from what the locals call the “Inca Revenge.” Use your imaginations; it is a terrible, terrible thing.
Regardless of our ailments, we intrepidly set off in our bus to visit sacred Inca sites called huacas and various other temples. As you can imagine, the roads outside of the city are not heavily traveled because the area is very remote, so there was a lot of tipping, bouncing, banging, flailing, etc. etc. We braved several hours of this, but we were rewarded with breathtaking panoramic views of the snow capped Andes mountains and the chance to interact with the local people.
Perhaps the highlight of our day is when we got to visit a national archaeological excavation site which was situated at about 3500m (about 11,000ft). In order to reach this site we had to hike for over an hour and travel 2000m (about 2 ½ miles round-trip). Clearly, the incline was quite steep, so for those of the group who were only experiencing mild altitude sickness, they were in for a surprise! After less than 5 minutes of hiking everyone was out of breath and our hearts were pounding. By the time we reached the top we were sweaty, breathless and worn out. It was at this point in our travels which we discovered the Andean black flies, which are apparently quite fond of American blood.
By now you must be asking yourself, what were we thinking? This sounds terrible! Of course it was hard, but the experience was unlike anything in the world. Sickness, being tired, getting eaten by bugs, it’s all taken in stride with a fantastic learning experience. Now, we must consider what we have learned from this experience. What we learned is that there are many native remedies from local plants to help all of our ailments. Probably the most prominent of these natural remedies is coca. Coca is the dried leaves of the coca plant and is typically ingested in one of two forms. Coca can either be used to make a very fragrant tea or the dried leaves can be chewed similarly to chewing gum. This helps altitude sickness, calming an upset stomach, and can also act as a mild oral anesthetic. For those of us not into chewing leaves to relieve altitude sickness, the pharmacy also sells sorojchi pills which are very concentrated aspirin and caffeine. Next, is yerbabuena or menta. This plant is a local variety of mint, which is slightly more citrusy and bitter than its American counterpart. We encountered this plant on the side of the mountain. To take yerbabuena you pick a spring and rub it in between your hands, hold them up to your face, and inhale deeply. This plant remedies headaches and calms your stomach. You can also chew yerbabuena, but since we were picking it off the side of a mountain where llamas were grazing, we decided against that option. Finally, we were introduced (a little too late) to a plant which you rub on your exposed skin to repel insects. Naturally, the guide told us this as were returning to the bus.
Clearly, there are many other native remedies besides the few mentioned here. These plants offer natural alternatives to the pills offered in the pharmacy or clinic, as well as providing the chance to learn about native culture and converse with the locals. For now, we are thankful to be feeling better in the altitude and are looking forward to tomorrow’s adventures!
Hasta pronto, Jane, Drew, and Kelsey
Regardless of our ailments, we intrepidly set off in our bus to visit sacred Inca sites called huacas and various other temples. As you can imagine, the roads outside of the city are not heavily traveled because the area is very remote, so there was a lot of tipping, bouncing, banging, flailing, etc. etc. We braved several hours of this, but we were rewarded with breathtaking panoramic views of the snow capped Andes mountains and the chance to interact with the local people.
Perhaps the highlight of our day is when we got to visit a national archaeological excavation site which was situated at about 3500m (about 11,000ft). In order to reach this site we had to hike for over an hour and travel 2000m (about 2 ½ miles round-trip). Clearly, the incline was quite steep, so for those of the group who were only experiencing mild altitude sickness, they were in for a surprise! After less than 5 minutes of hiking everyone was out of breath and our hearts were pounding. By the time we reached the top we were sweaty, breathless and worn out. It was at this point in our travels which we discovered the Andean black flies, which are apparently quite fond of American blood.
By now you must be asking yourself, what were we thinking? This sounds terrible! Of course it was hard, but the experience was unlike anything in the world. Sickness, being tired, getting eaten by bugs, it’s all taken in stride with a fantastic learning experience. Now, we must consider what we have learned from this experience. What we learned is that there are many native remedies from local plants to help all of our ailments. Probably the most prominent of these natural remedies is coca. Coca is the dried leaves of the coca plant and is typically ingested in one of two forms. Coca can either be used to make a very fragrant tea or the dried leaves can be chewed similarly to chewing gum. This helps altitude sickness, calming an upset stomach, and can also act as a mild oral anesthetic. For those of us not into chewing leaves to relieve altitude sickness, the pharmacy also sells sorojchi pills which are very concentrated aspirin and caffeine. Next, is yerbabuena or menta. This plant is a local variety of mint, which is slightly more citrusy and bitter than its American counterpart. We encountered this plant on the side of the mountain. To take yerbabuena you pick a spring and rub it in between your hands, hold them up to your face, and inhale deeply. This plant remedies headaches and calms your stomach. You can also chew yerbabuena, but since we were picking it off the side of a mountain where llamas were grazing, we decided against that option. Finally, we were introduced (a little too late) to a plant which you rub on your exposed skin to repel insects. Naturally, the guide told us this as were returning to the bus.
Clearly, there are many other native remedies besides the few mentioned here. These plants offer natural alternatives to the pills offered in the pharmacy or clinic, as well as providing the chance to learn about native culture and converse with the locals. For now, we are thankful to be feeling better in the altitude and are looking forward to tomorrow’s adventures!
Hasta pronto, Jane, Drew, and Kelsey
Sunday, March 8, 2009
Day 1: Gastronomy
We made it. It’s only been twenty-four hours and we all feel as if we’ve been here for quite sometime. Everyone seems to really enjoy Peru. The three of us are loving it. So far, we’ve battled airport security, Lima traffic, altitude sickness and the Inca revenge. Only one fatality… Just kidding. Moms, calm down.
We arrived in Lima after sitting on the runway for way too long, about 2 ½ hours. Everyone was really tired, so we went straight to bed. The next day we went to the Archeology museum in Lima which had very interesting articles from pre-Hispanic times. One of the interesting things about the pottery was that many of the pieces were themed around major dietary staples. This was particularly interesting because the tour guide mentioned that gastronomy is a major area of Peruvian culture and this was a manifestation of that sentiment. We saw pieces that represented corn, potatoes, chiles, and many other foods. The pre-Hispanic people of Peru especially idolized foods such as corn which can be seen in this quote from our readings: “A gold stalk of maize, of twenty four karats, with three leaves and two cobs of gold…” (Fernádez de Alfaro 1904: 168 [1533]).
Our flight from Lima to Cusco was very pleasant and immensely beautiful. Traveling on LAN Peru, which served real snacks, the entire group was situated on the port side of the plane. This allowed us to peer out our windows to view the amazing Andes mountain chain as the traveled south. Some were snow capped, others lush green, and some seemed as if we could reach out the window to touch. Coming upon Cusco, we could see a city built into the valley. Roofs of different heights mixed with green pastures. The images were beautiful and literally breathtaking. The landing was definitely not for the faint of heart. We have participated in many interesting native rituals for getting rid of altitude sickness to say the least.
Our charming hotel in Cusco is up an alley. While she hasn’t had the experience, Kelsey believes the architectural style could be coined as alpaca-herder’s mountain cottage. We have no choice but to believe her. Each room has a different lay-out at a different height within the building. We really like this place, even if the rooms are small. So small, the shower is small enough to fit into the closet. Literally: the shower is in the closet.
Gastronomy
We’ve had two exposures to true Peruvian food. Yesterday for lunch, we ate at La Bolivariano, an open-air restaurant near the Museum of Anthropology and Archeology. Sitting along a long table,
One particular vegetable that surprised everyone was a Peruvian variety of maíz (corn). The cornels were light yellow and the size of a thumb nail. The taste was a strong starch but very flavorful. Maiz is a very important to several American cultures, especially Peru
Our second restaurant was here in Cusco. A local tapas bar, we sat down at 21h 00m at two large tables for a leisurely meal. Appetizers, ordered by our professor, included BBQ cuy (guienny pig), octopus, duck prosciutto, and trout ceviche. We each tried a little of everything, some of us with more success than others. For the main dishes, we enjoyed trout, risotto, lamb and alpaca. Alpaca tastes like gammy, tough stake or pork, depending upon whom you ask. All and all, we enjoyed our meals, passing around our plates so everyone could have a bite. Wonderful stories were shared with the group, including one of Drew’s family’s favorite games, where everyone at the table told their favorite part of the day and their least favorite part of the day.
Traditional Peruvian dishes are expanding globally. Some locals, including our professor, explained that Peruvian restaurants are opening world-wide. We consider ourselves lucky to get
to try the dishes in the country of origin.
We arrived in Lima after sitting on the runway for way too long, about 2 ½ hours. Everyone was really tired, so we went straight to bed. The next day we went to the Archeology museum in Lima which had very interesting articles from pre-Hispanic times. One of the interesting things about the pottery was that many of the pieces were themed around major dietary staples. This was particularly interesting because the tour guide mentioned that gastronomy is a major area of Peruvian culture and this was a manifestation of that sentiment. We saw pieces that represented corn, potatoes, chiles, and many other foods. The pre-Hispanic people of Peru especially idolized foods such as corn which can be seen in this quote from our readings: “A gold stalk of maize, of twenty four karats, with three leaves and two cobs of gold…” (Fernádez de Alfaro 1904: 168 [1533]).
Our flight from Lima to Cusco was very pleasant and immensely beautiful. Traveling on LAN Peru, which served real snacks, the entire group was situated on the port side of the plane. This allowed us to peer out our windows to view the amazing Andes mountain chain as the traveled south. Some were snow capped, others lush green, and some seemed as if we could reach out the window to touch. Coming upon Cusco, we could see a city built into the valley. Roofs of different heights mixed with green pastures. The images were beautiful and literally breathtaking. The landing was definitely not for the faint of heart. We have participated in many interesting native rituals for getting rid of altitude sickness to say the least.
Our charming hotel in Cusco is up an alley. While she hasn’t had the experience, Kelsey believes the architectural style could be coined as alpaca-herder’s mountain cottage. We have no choice but to believe her. Each room has a different lay-out at a different height within the building. We really like this place, even if the rooms are small. So small, the shower is small enough to fit into the closet. Literally: the shower is in the closet.
Gastronomy
We’ve had two exposures to true Peruvian food. Yesterday for lunch, we ate at La Bolivariano, an open-air restaurant near the Museum of Anthropology and Archeology. Sitting along a long table,
One particular vegetable that surprised everyone was a Peruvian variety of maíz (corn). The cornels were light yellow and the size of a thumb nail. The taste was a strong starch but very flavorful. Maiz is a very important to several American cultures, especially Peru
Our second restaurant was here in Cusco. A local tapas bar, we sat down at 21h 00m at two large tables for a leisurely meal. Appetizers, ordered by our professor, included BBQ cuy (guienny pig), octopus, duck prosciutto, and trout ceviche. We each tried a little of everything, some of us with more success than others. For the main dishes, we enjoyed trout, risotto, lamb and alpaca. Alpaca tastes like gammy, tough stake or pork, depending upon whom you ask. All and all, we enjoyed our meals, passing around our plates so everyone could have a bite. Wonderful stories were shared with the group, including one of Drew’s family’s favorite games, where everyone at the table told their favorite part of the day and their least favorite part of the day.
Traditional Peruvian dishes are expanding globally. Some locals, including our professor, explained that Peruvian restaurants are opening world-wide. We consider ourselves lucky to get
to try the dishes in the country of origin.
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