Day 3: Cosmology of Peru

Our day started with a brief tour of Cuzco’s city center. We visited the Plaza de Armas where the Spanish cathedral and several convents are located. In Inca times, the center of the city was the Kori Cancha or the Temple of the Sun. The Spanish constructed a convent on top of this temple, but a large part of the temple still remains. According to Inca cosmology the Kori Cancha was the “navel of the world.” From this location there are 42 ceques or lines which radiate out from the temple like the spokes of a wheel. The Incas believe that Cuzco is divided into four sections, three of which contain 9 lines and one which contains 14. These lines have complicated astronomical calculations which correspond to various constellations and solar events. Each line includes any number of huacas or sacred sites. These sites usually have temples or ceremonial shrines. The calculations regarding these locations are infinitely complex. For example, the advanced nature of the Incan empire can be seen on the summer equinox (December 22) when the rising sun with shine through the perfectly aligned window in its temple and cast various significant shadows.

Clearly, the Incan empire was closely tied to the celestial bodies. There are numerous temples, shrines, etc. which coincide with a variety of dates in the astronomical calendar and show the Inca’s expansive knowledge of astronomy. The Inca did not separate the earth from sky, the way that we do in modern times. They saw the sky as a part of their world, and more specifically as a reflection of life on earth. For example, they saw the Milky Way galaxy as a reflection of their sacred Urubamba river. Unlike western civilization which sees constellations of stars in the night sky, the Inca saw constellations of stars and dark constellations of black space between the stars.

After leaving Cuzco center, we traveled to the outskirts of town to visit several important huacas. First, we visited Tambomachay, a huaca which served an important purpose in Inca civilization. This shrine celebrated water from a natural spring, but also served as a trading outpost, where traders coming from the other side of the mountains could stop to replenish their water sources.

Next we visited Q’engo. This huaca is an active archaeological l site. Here, the temple of the moon had two poles on opposing ends of the site which aligned with the path of the sun on the winter equinox (June 21). This site is actively being researched and excavated, and it still houses many mysteries.

Finally, we visited Saqsaywaman which was one of the largest huacas. This site served as an observatory of the sky, complete with many water mirrors for stargazing and watching the path of the sun. These water mirrors were ingenious firstly because they saved you from hurting your neck staring at the sky all night and also prevented you from going blind while watching the sun.

After nightfall we went to the Cuzco planetarium. Although it was too cloudy to actually stargaze we got to see what the sky would have looked like during Inca times and see some of their important constellations juxtaposed with our well known western constellations. Overall, many mysteries of the Inca empire still remain, however we know for sure that they were skilled astronomers who used their skills to tell time, build their city, celebrate their sacred places, and discover the wonders of the world.